Monday, August 4, 2014

Fairbanks to the Arctic Circle 8/4/14

Day 94 of our summer trip.  Dalton Highway

We got up early this morning to take a bus ride to the Artic circle.  It was an all day adventure.  A bus was scheduled to pick us up at the campground at 5:45 AM!  When it arrived at around 6:10, it took us to where we would board another bus for the trip.  This was a great mid-sized tour bus with the driver as the guide who narrated the tour.  In addition, the bus was equipped with many monitors on which our guide showed 5 movies that explained the history, geology, heritage, culture and wildlife of the area.  Our trip started out on a very nice 4 lane divided highway.  Soon, it was down to a 2 lane paved road with the undulations of the frost heaves as seen in the second photo.  Notice that the white line at the edge of the road is wavy.  This is caused by the freezing and thawing of the ground beneath the road. 
Now we are on a two lane highway with frost heavews (rolling humps caused by the freezing and thawing.We started out on a four lane highway

Then the road became more curvy and hilly.  Eventually, we were on dirt and gravel road.  Frost Heaves and potholes were in all types of roads, but became more prominent the farther north we got away from the city.  It actually wasn’t too bad in the bus, just bumps and shakes, but we were glad we weren’t doing the driving.
We are now on dirt roadsThe road is becoming more curvy and rough

Some scenery on the way to the Arctic Circle.  The Sawtooth Mountains are in the background of the first picture and the silver line in the second photo is the Trans-Alaska Pipeline going up the hill.

The silver line is the Trans-Alaska Pipeline
These are the sawtooth mountains in the distance









"There are some critters up ahead,” said our driver.  So we all got ready for some great wildlife photos. “Oh, they are some dogs.  They probably belong to one of the campers in the area.”   What a disappointment!  They were cute dogs though.  We never did see any large wild animals.
"There are some critters on the highway ahead," said the tour guide.  "Oh, they are probably the pet s of thenearby  campers.

Our first stop was at a store called the Wildwood General Store in Joy, AK.  There were hand made Willow branch chairs on the porch.
Willow wood furnirure on porch of the Wildwood General storeThis is the Wildwood General Store along the Dalton Highway

As we went inside, there were some interesting signs.  First  is warning that there are mosquitoes big enough to carry a person away.   You can see the rest of the signs on the door.  The map drawing also refers to the local mosquitos.
This map was inside the Wildwood General Store  We liked the saying about the mosquito.  Joy is the name of the community,Interesting signs on the door of the Wildwood General Store 

This was also our first potty break stop.  Here are the beautiful restrooms that were available.  Men’s on the left and women’s on the right  I know, the men’s is much more decorative that the women’s.  Both were glorified outhouses and very clean..
Women's outhouse at the Wildwood General StoreMen's outhouse at the Wildwood General Store.

The Dalton Highway is called the “haul road” because it is the only road to the Arctic communities and Prudhoe Bay.  It is the road that the Ice Road Truckers use to take all of the supplies to the outreaching areas in winter.  Then there are the tours and private cars that use it   Also, it is the highway that was used to build and is used to service the Trans-Alaska (Alyeska) Pipeline.  Here is one of the trucks now.  The gravel causes a lot of dust when traffic runs on it.  It gets a lot of use, but it is still a rugged road.  The winters cause a lot of the damage from the freezing, then when spring comes, the daytime thawing and refreezing at night causing frost heaves and pot holes to form.  Road construction, repair and general fixing is going on all of the time up here in the far north.
One of the big rigs on the "Haul Road"Lots of truck traffic on the Dalton Hwy, AKA the Haul Road.

We finally are on the Dalton Highway.  The roads that we have been on so far were leading up to this one.  I thought that this was a very pretty sign and did a close-up of the state that shows the Dalton Highway as a blue line.  We are not going all of the way to the end of it, only to the Arctic Circle. 
The blue line is the Dalton Hwy.  We went only from Fairbanks to the Artic Circle.P1070715

The Alaska pipeline and the road follow each other fairly closely.  Here they go across the country, off into the distance, almost parallel to each other.  The pipeline zig-zags to give it room to expand and contract as needed, without compromising its integrity.
The road and the pipeline travel through the countryside

There was an above ground run of the pipeline where we stopped.  We walked right up to it and our guide told us about what we were seeing.   The actual oil carrying pipe is encased in a thick insulation and  is wrapped in steel .  You can sort of see the pipe (black) inside the hole in the first picture.  That whole assembly is attached to runners that slide on the cross bar of the “H” shaped frame, so that it can slide a little, if needed, with weather changes and earthquakes.
Skids that the pipeline sits onThat black spot is the actual pipe inside the insulating fiberglass and aluminum wrap.

You can see in the following photo what it looks like for a distance.  The “H” frame is very strong, to keep the pipe from falling off. We learned that the oil coming directly from the ground is very hot.  I did not think about that before, but that is another reason for the insulation.  You do not want the heat from the oil to cause the permafrost to melt, because it would cause instability and threaten to collapse of the pipeline.  Protecting the environment and the pipeline are of utmost importance to the whole system.  The white pieces above the brown poles are radiators to cool the oil as it travels through the pipe.  As we crossed the Yukon River, the pipeline went right along with us in the cage looking area at the side of the bridge.
The pipeline  is in the cage at the side of the road while it crosses the Yukon RiverTrans-Alaska Pipeline along the Dalton highway


Above, I mentioned that road construction is an ongoing project in Alaska in general, especially in the far north.  Our tour bus couldn’t avoid it either.  We got stopped and had to follow the pilot car through the construction area.  There are areas where the pipeline goes underground, if the ground is stable enough and there is no problem with permafrost melting.  You can see the pipeline emerging from underground and continuing up hill in the upper left of the first picture.
Tour bus following the pilot car.Even the tour bus gets stopped by road construction.  Pipeline zig zags up the hill and off to the left


We finally made it to the Arctic Circle.  Our guide brought the “official Arctic Circle” and carefully placed it in the “exact spot” where the Arctic Circle boundary was.  Earl and I each crossed over the Arctic Circle, as you can see.
Fran crosses the Arctic CircleEarl crosses the Arctic Circle

And to prove it, here are our certificates.
P1070800P1070801

On the way back to Fairbanks, we made a stop at Finger Rock.  It is a tor, or a boulder of granite that formed 110 million years ago.  Over time, water seeped through the ground and the freezing and thawing caused lighter rocks to be washed away, leaving these large  granite tors exposed.  Finger rock is about 40 feet high, one of the largest in this area.  The rocks to the right are also in the park where Finger Rock is located.  There is a geocache up a trail to the top.  A faint rainbow, in the picture on the right, shows that there is rain in the distance.  We had rain later on the way home.  It was nice that it waited for us to be able to see all of the sights.
A small rainbow behind the hill.  A trail leads to the top of the hill and an interpretive sign.Finger Rock

We had dinner at the Yukon River Camp, on the way back to town.  It is a work camp for the construction workers in this remote area.  The food was really good.  I even had homemade rhubarb pie for dessert.  It was delicious.  The Bridge is the same one that I showed earlier over the Yukon River, just the other side, and it is not far from the building. 
Yukon River BridgeThis is where we had dinner

We got back to our trailer about 10:30 PM.  It was a very long day, but very educational.  Plus, we have been to the Arctic Circle.


Friday, August 1, 2014

Denali National Park 8/1/14

Day 91 of our summer trip.

Today is Earl’s birthday.  It is cloudy and rainy.  There is fog and the clouds are hiding the tall mountains.  We are going to Denali National Park to see if the weather is any different 30 miles away from where our camp is.  No, it is still drizzling and there are clouds and fog, just like at camp, here at the entrance of the park.
P1070565

We went to the visitor center where we watched some movies about Denali and looked at the displays that were there.  The first view of the topographical rendition of the Alaska Range and Mt. McKinley is the southern side that we had been taking photos of  two and three days ago.  The second view of the model shows a red line where the park road is.  There is a spotlight on Mt. McKinley.  We will be viewing it from the opposite side from which we saw it before, if we can see it at all.  Private vehicles are allowed on the first 15 miles, only.  If you want to go further, you must take a park bus. 
The view that we would have seen from the visitor center and along the park road (red line)This is the direction that we saw Mt. McKinley, the south side, in this 3-D topographical rendition of the park

There were also dioramas of the forest animals with all sorts of interactive learning opportunities in the visitor center.
Some of the informational displays inside the visitor centerSome of the informational displays inside the visitor center


We decided to drive the road as far as we could.  Maybe we would see some wild animals, we thought.  Well, we didn’t see any animals.  I guess they all were home, out of the rain.  There were some nice views though.  I think it is so interesting that the fog develops in such a straight line at that certain altitude.
Clouds form such a straight layer.Maybe it is in that direction

In our pursuit of Mt. McKinley, I think that I found out where it is supposed to be seen, if it was a clear day.  There was a view point with a picture that pointed out and labeled the different mountain peaks.  I could barely make it out with my zoomed in camera lens, but I think I matched the diagram pretty good, minus Mt. McKinley.  I think that the peak in the center is Cathedral Mt. and the dark area to the left is the same as the dark area to the left in the labeled picture.  Of course, Mt. McKinley is the bright white peak in the diagram.  What do you think?
No, I think this is the direction that we would have seen Mt. McKinley, if it was a clear day like we had before.P1070580


The railroad has a station located in the Denali Nat. Park.  It is located near the visitor center.  While we were returning from the 15 mile drive, we saw the railroad trestle over the Nenana River.  We went to the station and the train was just about to leave.
Train leaving the Denali Park StationRailroad trestle over the Nenana River leading to the Denali Park RR Station

There are several visitor centers in Denali.  We went to the one where people sign up for adventure tours or  back country trekking, etc.  We watched another movie there.  They had this amazing stained glass window.
Stained Glass window in another visitor center in Denali National Park

I did a close up of each half so the details showed up better.  Even the shadows on the mountain are in the shape of animals, or maybe my imagination is running wild.
Right side of windowLeft side of window

We had a nice day at the park even though the weather wasn’t the best. 
Tomorrow we will be going to Fairbanks.

Talkeetna, AK to Cantwell, AK 7/31/14

Day 90 of our summer trip. 

We did not travel far today. For the past two days, we have had beautiful clear skies and fantastic views of Mt. McKinley.  It is said that only 30% of all visitors to Alaska get to see the mountain during their visit.  We feel very privileged to have had two great days.  Today is the more usual view of the mountain and similar to what we saw when we were in Alaska on our cruisetour with Princess Cruise Line several years ago.  We are sure that we are looking in the right direction, because we took these photos from the same general area that we took yesterday's clear view photos. 


Now, we have made many twists and turns and have made our way farther north.  We don't even know if we are looking in the right direction to see Mt. McKinley.  What we do know is that no matter which direction we look, there are low hanging clouds that obscure the views of any high mountains that are out there.

The fireweed is so beautiful and plentiful right now, so I just had to include it in today's post.  We took these photos right before we left our campsite in Talkeetna.  Notice the bee on the first photo.

 
 
We found a nice RV park, the Cantwell RV Park, in Cantwell, AK.  Cantwell is located about 25 - 30 miles south of the entrance to Denali National Park.  Here is where we will stay for the next two nights.  This is definitely a seasonal campground.  It has electricity and water at the site and a dump station.  Interestingly, the water is supplied to each site in PVC piping laid on the ground, so that it can be picked up at the end of the tourist season and there is no worry about frozen, broken pipes.  That is what is inside the orange pipes on the ground.  It works fine.

There are animals at the RV Park.  They are the most wild animals that we have seen for quite awhile - a moose, a bear, and a wolf.  The plants have sort of hidden the bear, but he was there.

After we got settled in our campsite, we went to get some milk.  We wanted fat free milk, but all we could find at the store was 2%, so we decided to get 1/2 gallon to last until we got to a bigger store.  It was different and cost $6.99/half gallon.  The expiration date was 9/18/14!!!  We thought maybe they had made a mistake at the dairy, but all of that brand had the same date.  We looked and looked to see what was different about this milk but we couldn't figure it out.  Since I am writing this post after the actual time that it happened then back dating it, I can tell you that we did finally figure out what the difference was.  We went into a supermarket and saw that the same brand of milk had a regular milk dated to expire in a couple weeks and an "ultra-pasteurized" version that cost much more.  Since the convenience store that we had gone to did not have any other options available when we were there, we didn't have much choice and couldn't compare.  You always learn something.  The milk tasted the same as usual and was gone well before the expiration date.